It was a rainy day when we started out to Cochin.
Our flight was running late by two hours and we were tired with our early wake up at 4 AM. Got down in Cochin around 4 PM. It was pouring heavily in Cochin. We stared out to Kumarakom on a Prepaid Taxi. I had a bad feeling that I drive badly. Man! I was waiting to get to Kumarakom to be released from the Car. He drove at an alarming speed. Apart from that, the drive was pleasant. We traveled through the city of Cochin as the airport is way far from the city. After 30 minutes into the drive, we started sighting the Cocunut trees.
The coconut tree is an integral part of the landscape of Kerala, they are also an important part of the cuisine of Kerala. We reached Cherthala around 5.15 PM. Kumarakom is 12 Miles from Cherthala. We reached in Kumarakom at five past 6 PM. Mr.Sasi was waiting for us. As soon as we got down of the Taxi, we were transferred onto another car to be transported to the House Boat. We reached House Boat in little less than five minutes.
The house boat is a huge boat with three operating crew. Madhu introduced himself as the captain of the boat. The name of our boat was ‘Kailasam-II’. It has a small Bedroom with an attached bathroom and a parlor on the deck where we spent most of our time. The bedroom is equipped with a full size bed, air-conditioner, Television and a DVD Player. The crew started propelling the boat as soon as we settled down. Madhu steered through the canals. Myself and Kavi are amazed with the extravagant view of the lake and its surroundings. Vasu bought us steaming coffee, which felt like a potent after a tiring flight.The Kerala Backwaters are a chain of brackish lagoons and lakes lying parallel to the Arabian Sea coast (known as the Malabar Coast) of Kerala state in southern India. The network includes five large lakes (including Ashtamudi Kayal and Vembanad Kayal) linked by 1500 km of canals, both manmade and natural, fed by 38 rivers, and extending virtually the entire length of Kerala state. The backwaters were formed by the action of waves and shore currents creating low barrier islands across the mouths of the many rivers flowing down from the Western Ghats range. Vembanad lake is the largest of the lakes, covering an area of 200 sq km, and bordered by Alappuzha (Alleppey), Kottayam, and Ernakulam districts. Kumarakom is a cluster of little islands on the Vembanad Lake. Before the trucks became popular, the main cargo transportation was through backwaters by 'Kettuvalloms'. Kettuvallom loosely translated means: ‘tied boat’. They can be as long as 70 foot, with a 30 ton capacity, made with wooden planks joined and tied together with coconut ropes and painted with cashew nut oil outside.An amazing feature of the land surrounding the waterways is that it is below sea level. The seasoned farmers along the upper reaches of Lake Vembanad have developed ingenious methods to reclaim the backwaters temporarily for growing rice below sea level by creating a network of mud bunds and using traditional water pumping system. We passed by settlements where people live on a small plot of reclaimed land with their chickens, cattle and little gardens. They earn a living by fishing, rice farming, making coir fabric from coconut husks and boat building. They sail to work on their own boats and canoes. Madhu was waving hands to a few people across the banks during our cruise. While we were enjoying the exquisite Kerala backwaters, it got dark. I could not stop clicking my camera for the past hour. It is a different world on the canals of Lake Vembanad as it gets dark. The Boating restriction is set to 6PM to allow the fishermen at night. But, we had the wonderful opportunity to cruise through the canals after six, as we were late getting on the boat. Birds started reaching their nest. As it is Onam season in Kerala, we saw houses illuminated with oil lamps across the banks of the canal. People across the banks were watching through and waving hands. They looked very cordial and humble. Then madhu decided to steer back on the same course. We saw small canoes with fisherman getting ready for the nightly work. As it got dark, we were not able to see the canal route. Vasu got the lantern and kept it moving, making it easy for madhu to see the route. After a while, Madhu decided to stop the boat for a night halt. He slowly loosened the heavy anchor. It was around 7.30 PM. Madhu asked for our usual Dinner schedule. We decided on vegetarian. At sharp 9 PM, we dined with freshly rolled thin chapathis (wheat flat bread) with green beans curry sautéed with shredded coconut, Potato curry with masala and mushroom curry. We were also provided with a lime pickle upon my request. It was a perfect dinner for the location. Then we retired to our only room.We woke up before dawn eager to get a glimpse of morning sunrise. We saw fishermen busy with their work. People are getting up with their daily routine at the village across the banks. Madhu served us steaming coffee. We enjoyed the morning sunrise while madhu and team steered the boat towards the lake vembanad. The breakfast was served around 8 AM. The Poori and Bhaji was delicious. Madhu gave us a brief intro about Lake Vembanad and its surroundings. There are many Chinese fishing nets along the banks of Lake Vembanad. The Chinese fishing nets are fixed land installations. Each structure is at least 10m high and comprises a cantilever with an outstretched net suspended over the sea and large stones suspended from ropes as counterweights at the other end. Each installation is operated by a team of up to six fishermen. The system is sufficiently balanced that the weight of a man walking along the main beam is sufficient to cause the net to descend into the sea. The net is left for a short time, possibly just a few minutes, before it is raised by pulling on ropes. The catch is usually modest: a few fish.We were back to the Jetty around 9 AM. It was raining heavily. It was an wonderful experience aboard Kailasam. We headed back to the hotel. That day we took off to Kottayam for shopping. My dad always keep saying about Kottayam from his experiences from the trip to Holy Ayyappa Temple at Sabarimala. I felt a homely experience in the town. We had an early flight on 13th August around 6AM. So we slept early. Kerala is a great place to visit. Thanks to Sasi and the boat crew for our everlasting memoirs. I remember reading something like this: "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -- Mark Twain
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